A Malawian Week

Monday: We drove up to Ntchisi town, where we had a few appointments before going the rest of the way to the lodge. We were supposed to meet the local director of the electricity company, and to look at a truck for sale. Neither of them showed up. We went to the lodge and spent the afternoon taking measurements for new windows. Had a nice evening in front of the fireplace with a glass of wine.

Tuesday: We tested the cob oven with its first lot of home-baked buns, and they came out really well. We enjoyed the hot buns with jam and peanut butter with the staff. Also went to test our home-made solar heater for hot water. It was leaking last time we were there, so we covered it in silicone and left it to dry. But when we tried to move it back into the sun, the silicone broke off, and we were back at square one. However, the water that leaked out of the other side of the solar heater was significantly warmer than that which went into it, so at least that means it’s partially working. We were waiting for Jean to show up in the evening to talk to her about payment for the lodge, but she didn’t come.

Wednesday: Packed up and went to Ntchisi town to meet the electricity director again. He wasn’t there. Outside the office, there was a guy selling small, sparrow-sized birds (shaft-tailed wydahs – we looked them up) for eating. He said they were delicious. I’d like to try them – they eat sparrows in France as well after all. Got to Lilongwe at lunch-time, where we met Obey, our mechanic friend from Ntchisi. He took us to the army barracks to look at a truck for sale, a strange and slightly scary place. We met the Brigadier General, a very friendly semi-retired old guy who had been in the army for the last forty years His truck looked good and the price was reasonable so we told him we’d be back the next morning.

Thursday: Went back to the barracks to close the deal with the Brigadier General. Then went to the National Road Traffic offices to get the paperwork done – change of ownership, renewal of licence, roadworthiness certificate, etc. Spent the whole rest of the day sat there in the heat waiting. In the evening went to a bar in town where we’d been told the owners were big fans of Ntchisi and had wanted to buy it but only found out too late it was for sale. Spoke to the wife, Scottish, who was really nice; sounds like they’ll be regular customers.

Friday: Back at Road Traffic offices. Spent the whole day there waiting in the heat. At lunch-time went to speak to a builder who’s given us a ridiculously high quote and told him so. He brought it down to half; we told him to think about it a bit more and ring us next week. Back to waiting at Road Traffic. Went briefly to the Ministry of Tourism at the end of the day to follow up on our application for a duty waiver for goods when we go shopping in South Africa in a few weeks’ time. Were told that we had to produce the exact prices and number of items we’d buy and that they had to fit with the receipts when we produced them at the border; otherwise we couldn’t get a duty waiver. How can you possibly know exactly what you will buy in South Africa and how much it costs before you actually go there and look in the shops? Were also told we needed a licence for tourism to go with the application (last time we went to check up, they told us we needed something entirely different), so we filled in the form. But unfortunately the guy who writes the receipts was out, so we couldn’t get a receipt. I refused to pay and left, will have to go back Monday. Had a take-away pizza and a few drinks in the bar and went to bed exhausted.

Saturday: Decided we needed a day off and I spent most of it reading some book about philosophy. Went out for dinner with a Danish couple we’ve met and had all in all a really nice, relaxing day.

Sunday: Wrote this, then looked through our accounts and various other spreadsheets. Started a new list for next week, which involves taking builders to the lodge, going to timber plantations to see if we can get wood for the new roof, chasing the duty application again, speaking to the tax authorities, etc, etc…